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NES2 Top Loader with official AV Out?
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KingMike



Joined: 04 Nov 2003
Posts: 893

PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the AV Famicom still has the expansion port.
Though I've heard reports of expansion port standard controllers not working.
(only controller I have is a wireless FC/SFC controller by Konami. Doesn't seem to work, either (on my FC. It works on my SNES, although the Start button doesn't work on mine and a screw was stripped so I couldn't open it to take a look.
Though the Konami pad has a switch for FC and SFC, it doesn't seem to have a FC 1P/2P switch, which I thought it'd need?)
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Asaki



Joined: 19 Apr 2009
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johntorn wrote:
Also I'm pretty sure there's a hack to get a cleaner signal out of a regular NES-2.


Yep: http://nesdev.parodius.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=601

LocalH wrote:
Seems to me like an AV Famicom that Nintendo put a 72-pin port and an NES badge on. They even hastily slapped an NES-001 label on the bottom =P


AV Famicom has a flat top instead of curved, to accomodate the FDS. If it is a fake, it would have to be a frankenstein, or maybe even just photos of different models, since you never see the rounded top and the AV connector in the same shot.

The labels do look rather suspicious, my top loader says NES-101, with a copyright date of 1993, and says "NES CONTROL DECK" with the Nintendo logo in the modern style. Mine has no sticker where that serial number is placed, and the model in the photos is missing the "call for maintenance" sticker on the back.

Both stickers in the photos look exactly like the ones from a US NTSC model 1. Weird.

neomerge wrote:
I really want to get a nes-2 but haven't been able to find one in my price range ($30-50).


I tried getting one at that price range, but ended up having to pay $60 (I assume no one wanted to outbid me because it was already modded). It really does pay for itself with the amount of headaches you prevent, though >_<

Carnivol wrote:
...maybe the PCB for the GG is a bit thicker than a regular cartridge...


It is. I took one apart to get it to fit into a model 2, and it still wouldn't fit without extra force (which I didn't do because I didn't want to damage the console).

Smeg wrote:
Generally I think this can be controlled by keeping your connectors clean and maintained, but there is also a very simple mod to disable the lockout chip and prevent that sort of behavior altogether.


I've tried lockout chip mod, cleaning the connectors, bending the connectors back into place, and even soldering a Game Genie slot onto the board, and nothing seemed to work at all. Buying a new connector might work for a while, but I imagine eventually it would wear out again.

NES 2, you keep your games clean, pop one in, and turn it on. Cost me about $3 to mod the a/v, not counting the security screw bits I had to buy (which are good to have anyway).
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ferricide



Joined: 27 Apr 2009
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

a few things..

for one, i think people are presuming that the toploading NES is more reliable than it actually is/was. it's less prone to wear and tear than the front-loading NES, of course, as it doesn't have the bizarre spring arrangement, but it's hardly a super robust piece of hardware. none of the NES/famicom hardware is that well-made or reliable.

the AV famicom did have the SNES style video out, so it makes sense that if this is real, it would have that output.

the AC adaptor for the AV famicom is the same as the super famicom, but i don't think that necessarily translates to the SNES as well. i have an AV famicom that was picked up right before nintendo discontinued the system in 2003, by a friend in tokyo. at that time you could still buy new boxed third party AC adapters.

the voltage difference could actually have an effect. back in the day i had a sega mega CD unit from japan; the AC adaptor used to buzz when plugged in and eventually the whole unit died. it was really the worse for wear, though, so that may have been a contributing factor. i would not leave it plugged in, regardless.

starting around the time of the PS1 or PS2 era, companies started making cross-compatible power supplies, probably to streamline the manufacturing process. the GBASP and DS power supply being cross-compatible is not a really good indicator that older systems' will be.
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